Native American Indian Dog Preservation Project

Native American Indian Dog Preservation Project, Est. 1995

The goals and purposes of this breed standard include furnishing guidelines for breeders who wish to maintain their breed’s quality and improve it, advancing this breed to a state of similarity worldwide, and acting as a guide for judges. 
Breeders and judges must avoid any conditions or exaggerations detrimental to this breed’s health, welfare, essence, and soundness and take responsibility to see that these are not perpetuated. 
Any departure from the following should be considered a fault, and the seriousness with which the fault should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dog’s ability to perform its traditional work.

The Native American Indian Dog is a composition of the most ancient dog breeds known to Native America. Its name is an homage giving credence and recognition to no less than 974 tribes that occupied the lands during the pre-Columbus era. Though the origins of the native people and their dogs are debated among different historians, they were undoubtedly in the region for no less than 30,000 years. It is known that the breed is descended from several Native American dogs that are now extinct, including the Hare Indian Dog and the Salish Wool Dog, as well as some native wild canids, some of which are rare but still living today, such as the Carolina Dingo, the Coyote, and the Gray Wolf. Tribes throughout the continent used them for many diverse tasks, including but not limited to herding, guarding, protection, pulling both sleds and travois, babysitting, packing, assisting with hunts, and companionship. When Europeans settled the North American continent, many Native American Indian Dogs began mixing with outside blood. With the Native American Indian peoples being pushed out of their homes lands and moved onto reservations, most species of Native American Indian Dogs known to the continent would quickly become extinct at the beginning of the 20th century, with only a few hundred remaining in existence and carefully guarded by the few tribes that still had them as the century neared its close. However, the breed was “rediscovered” in the 1970s and 80s, and a new interest in its preservation surged. In 1995, the Native American Indian Dog Preservation Project was established as a group of tribal breeders who sought to preserve this important – and often overlooked – part of Native American Indian culture. Since then, the NAID Preservation Project has worked to maintain with as much integrity and authenticity as possible, and with the remaining lines that are currently available, the Native American Indian Dog in its original and pure state.

The Native American Indian Dog is a powerfully yet delicately built paradox with superb athleticism. A substantial dog with a proud chest, a muscled body, and a thick, double coat of coarse guard hairs protects a soft, wooly undercoat. He must have sturdy bones, substantial legs, large, durable feet, and a soundness of all the other physical characteristics necessary for strength, tenacity, hard work, and endurance. The Native American Indian Dog stands well-built upon his feet, giving him the appearance of occupation and awareness. His gait is steady, calculated, expertly balanced, and tireless. He does not pursue speed, although quick; instead, he must be capable of making tight maneuvers and carrying or pulling heavy loads for many miles at a steady, unwavering pace.

When judging the Native American Indian Dog, his overall suitability for being a loyal and devoted companion and assistant to his human counterpart in day-to-day life must be given first consideration. The degree to which a dog is penalized should be in direct proportion to how much the particular fault would hamper the dog from performing his task. 

An adoring and dotingly loyal breed, the Native American Indian Dog is anything but a one-person dog. He epitomizes a tender, warm, and devotedly loving companion. He is playful, sensitive, and bright when he is young. When he is fully mature, he is highly intuitive and spiritual; an imposingly splendid and majestic companion in his dignity and grace.

CONTAINMENT – His remarkable intelligence and pack-loving nature require that he always have a companion. Another dog is preferable for the Native American Indian Dog that must be left alone for an extended time. The Native American Indian Dog will not generally do well in an apartment or condo setting and, due to his wild nature, will require a fence of at least 6’ high with ample room to run and play.

INTELLIGENCE – He exhibits an extremely high level of intelligence with the keen ability to learn, remember, utilize deductive reasoning, and problem-solving.

TEMPERAMENT – He is a highly social and peaceful creature who is anything but antagonistic or hostile. He loves to play and tumble all day and will generally back down when met with the aggression of a strange and quarrelsome dog. The exception to this rule is his devoted, loyal, and protective nature toward his pack, rendering him a fearless defender of his human and animal companions in situations where danger or adversity arises. He is even more particularly protective of young, helpless children. He is known for his versatility and learning capacity, which makes him the ideal family companion.

LIFE EXPECTANCY – The Native American Indian Dog has an average life expectancy between 14-17 years. There is very little, if anything, known or documented regarding congenital defects or genetically related health issues.

The head is broad and profound but never oafish, inelegant, or graceless. It should be in perfect proportion to the rest of the dog.

SKULL – The skull is broadest between the ears, well-shaped, tapered, and somewhat elongated toward the muzzle. An almost perfectly triangular head is a desirable characteristic. The skull should narrow and angle downward slightly near the eyes, with gently to moderately angular cheeks.

MUZZLE – A well-shaped, tapered, somewhat long muzzle is desirable.

TEETH – The teeth are white, straight, and tight, and the teeth should meet together for a precise, scissor-like bite.
Faults: Overshot or undershot bite.

EYES – Almond-shaped, slightly to moderately large, and set obliquely. The expression is soft, knowing, and kind, indicating a doting nature. The eyes may be Oka (blue), Tanchi (yellow to yellow-green), Luak (amber), or Nita (brown). The eyes should be bright, with the pure essence of play, frolic, and mischief. There must be an almost human-like intelligence and a soul-searching ability within the gaze. All should be visible in the eye of the Native American Indian Dog.

EARS – The ears may range from small with rounded tips to large and long with pointed tips with the potential to look slightly out of proportion to the size of the head. They are triangular in shape and erect, set wide apart at the back of the skull. When erect, the ears should point forward. When the dog works or playfully interacts with his human companion, the ears are often somewhat folded against the skull.

NOSE – The nose pad may be black, brown, red, spotted, or striped (snow nose), which is common and is not considered a fault.

Strong and moderately arched.

SHOULDERS – The shoulders are straight, erect, and proud, with a slight slope.

FORELEGS – The forelegs are sturdy and thick and may appear somewhat heavy. They are well-muscled, indicating strength and agility. The toes point slightly outward from the oversized paws, which may give an appearance of no hocks. The toes are webbed, demonstrating an ability to travel expertly through water and snow. 

The Native American Indian Dog has two distinct body types: 1. Miko (giant) and 2. Imoma (standard).

MIKO – The Miko Native American Indian Dog has a somewhat long body and long back with a proportionately sized long leg to support and balance the body’s frame. A broad, deep chest to support a sizeable muscular heart and excellent lung capacity is essential. These dogs were used in a working capacity from dawn until dusk, assisting in hunting large game and pulling loaded travois carrying cargo weighing up to 250 pounds. The top line should have a slight slope at the withers for more significant movement, flexibility, and agility.

IMOMA – The Imoma Native American Indian Dog has a shorter leg and a short but robust back with a sloping shoulder for superb mobility. A deep chest is essential for a considerable lung capacity and pronounced endurance. The Imoma Native American Indian Dog is tailored to hunt small, rapidly moving game and is simultaneously contrived to carry packs loaded with up to 50 pounds of supplies for no less than 12 hours per day.

The hindquarters should be broad and powerfully muscled through the thighs, tapering to trim and agile hocks.

HIPS – The hips should be broad and square, ideal for pulling or carrying large amounts of weight. The movement, at a trot or a lope, should appear easy, gliding, and free-flowing, giving off an air of effortlessness.

HIND LEGS – The leg follows a straight line from the hip to the hind toes. The stifles are moderately bent, and the hock joints are strong, somewhat bent, and let down. When viewed from behind, the hind legs should be vertically standing and move appropriately in line with the movement of the front legs, not too wide or too close at any gait.
Faults: Dewclaws.

The feet are large and appear slightly oversized. They are generous but tight, profound with well-cushioned, tough pads and arched, webbed toes, giving them a strong, sturdy, but nimble appearance. There is a defensive extension of hair between the toes.

The tail is set following the natural line of the spine. It is generously coated and appears plume-like to waterfall-like. It should be full, bushy, and hang relaxed in line with the hind legs. A slight curl of the tail is common and acceptable. The tail may be carried erect when the dog is relaxed and not working.

Faults: Tail carried over the back.
Disqualifications: Tail snaps or curls tightly against the back.

The Native American Indian Dog is double coated, with a thick, coarse guard coat (which must never be excessively long or soft) and a dense, oily, somewhat wooly undercoat one to two inches long. The guard hairs vary in length, and there are two recognizable coat lengths: 1. Kallo (long-somewhat wooly) and 2. Ik Kallo (medium-plush).

KALLO – The Kallo-coated Native American Indian Dog’s coat is usually the longest around the neck, down the back, over the croup, on the breeching, and on the tail. The coat tends to be shorter and somewhat thinner in warm climates. The coat is untrimmed.

IK KALLO – The Ik Kallo-coated Native American Indian Dog’s coat is luxuriously plush and even in length over the entire body, with the potential for the fur on the tail to be slightly to moderately longer than the coat on the rest of the body, giving the tail a cascading and plume-like air. The coat tends to be shorter and somewhat thinner in warm climates. The coat is untrimmed.

Colors range from solid white to light gray through the intermediary shadings to black, sable, shadings of sable, to red and shadings of red, to a broken pattern of various colors on a white background known as “Spirit Dog.” Color combinations are acceptable in undercoats, points, and trimming. White or cream should be present on the underbody, parts of the legs and feet, and part of the face markings. The markings should be either cap-like or mask-like on the face. A white blaze or stripe on the forehead, a broken or unbroken white collar, or a spot on the nape is acceptable, attractive, and quite common. Broken color extending over the body in areas of uneven splashing is classic and desirable. Solid colors are rare but allowable. The colors and patterns are classified as 1. Issitushi (spirit dog), 2. Nashoba (agouti or various gray shades), 3. Shilup (white), 4. Homma (red), and 5. Yanash (sable).

MIKO – The ideal height and weight for males are 25”-30” at the withers and 85-120 pounds; for females, it is 22”-26” inches at the withers and 60-80 pounds.

IMOMA – The ideal height and weight for males are 23”-27” at the withers and 65-85 pounds; for females, it is 21”-25” at the withers and 45-55 pounds.

Regardless, size consideration should never outweigh that of type, proportion, and function. When all else is equal, the dog nearest the ideal size and weight is preferred. 

The gait is unwavering, stable, and secure, showing agility and athleticism despite the size. From the side, there is a strong drive from the hindquarters, and the forequarters have a seamlessly smooth and gliding reach. From the front and rear, the legs move faithfully, not too close or too wide, though, at a fast trot, the feet will converge more narrowly toward a center line.

Faults: A gait that is stilted or inefficient in any way.

A dog with a Disqualification must not be considered for placement in a confirmation event and must be reported to the NAIDPP.
Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid.
Extreme viciousness or shyness. 
Albinism.

The NAIDPP has developed a set of best practices for our breeders, which set us above other breeding programs. These best practices have grown organically over many years of experience and are guaranteed, when followed, to produce excellent consistent outcomes. The NAIDPP governing body has set forth these best practice guidelines to be strictly followed by all breeders within the program to continue our achievement of excellence in breeding and to meet our mission statement. 

1.  CARE OF BREEDING STOCK 
   1. General care of adult dogs: 
      1. Adult breeding dogs should be kept in good health at all times. This should minimally include the following: 
         1. A yearly wellness visit or wellness at an interval recommended by your veterinarian. 
         2. Routine veterinarian-recommended treatments for worms and other parasites in your region. 
         3. Upkeep on core vaccines through boosters or titers (preferred). 
      2. Breeding stock are not required to be house pets but should be provided with adequate and comfortable living quarters and shelter. This should minimally be: 
         1. 100 sq ft of space per adult dog. 
         2. Fresh bedding and cleaning daily. 
         3. Constant access to fresh water. 
         4. Access to shade and shelter from the elements. 
         5. Access to an exercise run for at least two hours daily.
      3. Adult NAIDs require a more biologically-appropriate diet than most dogs. They do not generally do well on many types of kibble, with the caveat being that diets alternative to kibble need to be adequately researched and balanced. NAIDPP breeders must agree to the following minimum standards: 
         1. Do NOT feed grain-free kibble. 
         2. Provide high-quality, nutritionally sound supplements for breeding stock.
   2. General care of breeding dams during the interpregnancy interval:  
      1. Obtain, through a veterinary visit or telephone consultation, veterinary medical guidance and advice regarding routine vaccinations, treatments, deworming, etc., to prepare the dam and planned litter with the best possible outcome. 
      2. Continue to follow the best practices for caring for adult dogs.
   3. General care of pregnant dams:  
      1. Complete one pregnancy confirmation (puppy counts are encouraged if they are reasonably priced) with an established veterinarian and receive follow-up recommendations at this visit.
      2. Follow all the Puppy Culture workbook guidelines for the prenatal stage.
      3. Schedule a biweekly sponsor/sponsee meeting for check-ins and coaching. 
   4. General care of nursing dams:
      1. Nursing mothers should be provided with extra care and comfort due to the added strain and stress of caring for a litter of puppies. This should minimally include the following:
         1. Access to clean, fresh water at all times. 
         2. Access to come and go from the whelping area at will.
         3. A comfortable place, such as a platform bed, near the whelping area where the dam can watch the puppies but “escape” from them if needed.
         4. Access to a clean place to relieve herself, such as shavings inside a weaning pen, outdoor access, or elimination breaks offered every 3-4 hours.
         5. Plenty of extra food (within reason) with either constant access offered or multiple meals per day. 
2. WHELPING AND GENERAL PUPPY CARE GUIDELINES 
   1. The NAIDPP requires all litters without exception to be whelped inside the home.  
   2. The whelping setup should include a constant heat source, such as a heat lamp, that the puppies can move underneath or away from at will to keep warm. The heat source should be kept in place until the puppies reach the transitional period and are showing signs of being able to regulate temperature.
   3. Breeders must clean and sanitize the whelping area once daily.
   4. When the pups are old enough to eat and drink without supervision, constant access to fresh water must be available to them and meals must be provided with the appropriate caloric content for the pups’ body weights. 
3. PUPPY CARE BY STAGES
   1. Neonatal (0-14 days):
      1. Refer to the Puppy Culture workbook guidelines for the neonatal stage.
      2. Schedule a check-in between the sponsor/sponsee within 24 hours of the arrival of an expected litter.
      3. Plan an additional sponsor/sponsee check-in at the three-day mark, the one-week mark, the two-week mark, and additionally, as needed.
      4. The breeder must contact their veterinarian within the first 72 hours of the birth of a litter to schedule a litter examination, fecal culture, vaccinations, deworming, and microchipping at age six weeks. For NAIDPP breeders to remain in good standing, all puppies must receive their first set of core vaccines and an initial wellness examination at a veterinary clinic. The NAIDPP requires that all puppies be brought to their veterinary clinic appointments inside an enclosed carrier and that all litter exams be scheduled as the first appointment of the day to avoid transmission of infection to the puppies from other dogs.
      5. Make a birth announcement within 24 hours of delivery. Photos are not required but are encouraged when it is practical.
      6. Each litter must be registered with the NAIDPP within the first week of arrival. Registering a litter with the NAIDPP is $50 per puppy, and it is a requirement for all NAIDPP breeders to remain in good standing.
      7. Breeders should, by this time, have a schedule arranged for ENS and ESI exercises and be prepared to begin implementation at age three days and continue daily through age 16 days.
      8. Breeders should plan to spend a few minutes each day cuddling and stroking the puppies and examining them to be sure they are growing and thriving.
      9. During the neonatal period, the puppies’ nails should be trimmed once. 
   2. Transitional (14-21 days):
      1. Reference the guidelines in the Puppy Culture workbook for the transitional period.
      2. Sponsor/sponsee check-ins should continue weekly or more frequently as needed.
      3. Puppies’ nails should be checked and trimmed if necessary.
      4. Puppies should be dewormed using Safe-Guard or Pyrantel at 14-16 days.
   3. Socialization (3 weeks):
      1. Breeders should leave continuous classical music playing softly for most of the daylight hours.
      2. Breeders should plan for an hour of other sound exposure from the television or radio.
      3. The Puppy Culture workbook criteria for the socialization period week one should be followed.
      4. A sponsor/sponsee check-in should be scheduled once this week.
      5. Puppies’ nails should be checked or trimmed.
      6. DNA swab should be collected after 21 days old and returned to UC David VGL.
   4. Socialization (4 weeks):
      1. Breeders should leave continuous classical music playing softly for most of the daylight hours.
      2. Breeders should plan for an hour of other sound exposure from the television or radio.
      3. The Puppy Culture workbook criteria for week two’s socialization period should be followed.
      4. A sponsor/sponsee check-in should be scheduled once this week.
      5. Puppies should receive a first bath.
      6. Check or trim nails.
      7. Puppies should be dewormed with Safe-Guard or Pyrantel between 28-30 days old 
   5. Socialization (5 weeks)
      1. Breeders should leave continuous classical music playing softly for most of the daylight hours.
      2. Breeders should plan for an hour of other sound exposure from the television or radio.
      3. The Puppy Culture workbook criteria for week three’s socialization period should be followed.
      4. A sponsor/sponsee check-in should be scheduled once this week.
      5. Bathe puppies and check nails. 
   6. Socialization (6 weeks):
      1. Breeders should leave continuous classical music playing softly for most of the daylight hours.
      2. Breeders should plan for an hour of other sound exposure from the television or radio.
      3. The Puppy Culture workbook criteria for week four’s socialization period should be followed.
      4. A sponsor/sponsee check-in should be scheduled once this week.
      5. Bathe puppies and trim nails.
      6. Puppies should have their litter exam done this week. At the visit, they must receive the following:
         1. First set of core vaccines.
         2. Third round of dewormer.
         3. Microchip placement.
         4. One fecal culture for the litter to check for intestinal parasites.
         5. Each puppy must have an individual medical record to transfer care to the owner. The breeder should carefully mark the continuing vaccine and deworming schedule for the owners’ information and convenience.
      7. Immediately following the veterinary visit, the breeder should email the owners to inform them of when they should schedule their veterinary visits to be sure the puppies have the proper continuation of care.
      8. At age 49 days, breeders should administer Volhard’s PAT. The results will determine where the puppies should be placed for an optimum fit. Generally, two or three puppies should fit well with each household based on the PAT scores. Although it is not required, the NAIDPP recommends that breeders assign puppies to families to ensure the best match.
   7. Socialization (7 weeks through pick-up date):
      1. Breeders should leave continuous classical music playing softly for most of the daylight hours.
      2. Breeders should plan for an hour of other sound exposure from the television or radio.
      3. The Puppy Culture workbook criteria for week five’s socialization period should be followed.
      4. A sponsor/sponsee check-in should be scheduled once this week.
      5. Bathe puppies and trim nails. 
4. BREEDING PROGRAM AND PREGNANCY PLANNING 
   1. Maintenance:
      1. Keep all items needed for whelping and weaning puppies clean and in good repair.
      2. Keep a proper inventory of equipment, including a list of on-hand items, to-purchase, and equipment and items that will soon need to be replaced.
   2. Planning:
      1. Schedule a biweekly sponsor/sponsee check-in during this time to review your inventory and make plans for breeding and pregnancy.
      2. Keep a current 10-year breeding plan laid out by NAIDPP founders and do not deviate from this plan.
      3. If questions or concerns regarding the breeding plan arise, NAIDPP breeders must, under all circumstances, direct them to the NAIDPP founders and receive the approval of both founders before making any changes.
5. CLIENT INTERACTIONS
   1. Inform clients on the front end – preferably when announcing the birth of the litter – what they can expect from you weekly until their puppies go home. They will be far less anxious and less likely to cause a commotion if they have realistic expectations for the next two months.
   2. Send clients education. They will not only occupy their time this way but will also be able to learn better before a puppy comes into their home than after.
   3. Consider planning a schedule for updating clients so they aren’t constantly texting for updates. You can dedicate less time to photos, videos, and messaging, which can become incredibly time-consuming.
   4. Send pictures or videos of the group rather than individual photographs (encouraged, but not required).
   5. Plan for veterinary visits, making travel arrangements and client meetings as early as possible.
   6. Send paperwork such as lab reports and educational handouts electronically to clients to save time and money.
   7. Keep meticulous and accurate records on everything from finances to veterinary care to client addresses and phone numbers.
   8. Discuss payment ahead of time and ensure finances are transparent in advance.